Update : 18.12.2005
Place : Lake Langano/Ethiopia
Day : 64
Distance : 11,661km

I haven't really focused on or allocated much time to Sudan in my program. Honestly, until I picked up the Sudan guide book towards the end of Egypt leg of my trip, I haven't even considered making any changes to my program. So, although its history is no comparison to some of the countries I have in my program leading up to and after Sudan, I have decided that it is important enough to spend some time there since this country has been through a few important periods worth the attention.

When I first visited Khartoum in 1988, it was a "dull" and "lifeless" city with no asphalt paved roads with the exception of a few central roads. A cloud of dust used to permanently hang in the air and there were only a few cars on the roads (some of which belonged to the United Nations and other aid organizations, as I remember) and there were no buildings worthy of notice apart from Hilton, Meridien Hotel, a few government and military buildings and a couple of colonial structures left from the British rule. It is clear as day, all these years (17 years since I was here, incredible) have changed the appearance and the spirit of Khartoum. The only thing time hasn't been able to change is the "dust cloud hanging in the air". The city is still covered by dust that burns your eyes and nasal passages. But the present Khartoum appears much different to the old one with its wide roads, impressive modern buildings, bright and vivacious streets, green parks (back then there was a lot of greenery but I don't really remember seeing a lot of people in it).

Also, it seems to be that people are a bit more relaxed now. Even though, like Mehmet said, it is a republic ruled by the military and the Islamic law, at least there aren't weird rules and restrictions like the curfew that was in force in 1988 on every second Friday of the month. Yes! There was such a curfew and the reason for it was even stranger: to make people clean their homes once a month!

Anyways. Khartoum has changed but a habit has survived the change. Slowness, sluggish mode of life still dominates Sudan, which is something unusual to people like us, who previously had "exposure to civilization". If you are visiting Sudan for business and, let's say for argument's sake, you envision fitting all your planned business in a few days by using your time efficiently during this trip, forget it. Like some say Sudan is ruled by IBM. This is not the IBM you know. It is Inshallah, Bokra and Malesh. It works like this: when something needs to get done you hear Inshallah meaning God willing, then bokra as in "tomorrow" and finally malesh that is "sorry". For impetuous people like me, it is impossible to stand the sluggish attitude of the Sudanians.

There are 19 main ethnic groups in Sudan. These are divided into more than 500 sub-ethnic groups all of which speak more than 100 languages. Such ethnic and language diversity among about 38 million people living in an area of two and a half million kilometer squares naturally brings its problems with it. The government which had troubles with the Southern Sudan up until recently had just only managed to convince them to cease fire in return for autonomy when the violence erupted (or was created) in the western province of Darfur. Darfur, where genocide and terrible atrocities were committed with secret government support, will for a long time give headache to the Sudanian government and get in the way of "re-building" its severely damaged reputation in the international arena. I am not sure how the government can successfully rule a country today by intimidation and employing separatist policies.

70% of Sudan's population is Sunni Muslims. Sufism is mainly focused on reaching God through mystic practices outside of the usual worship practices of Islam and it is widely practiced in Sudan. The Sudanian Sufis who belong to the Qadiriyah tariqa founded in 12th century in Baghdad begin their Zhikr ceremony every Friday an hour before sunset. It lasts till sunset and the ritual ends with an evening prayer that follows Zhikr. The most well-known Sufi ritual of all is the one that takes place in Omdurman which was once made the capital city by Mahdi (or his real name Mohammed Ahmad al-Mahdi) after he ended the first (Ottoman) colonial era, later became a suburb of Khartoum.

I was hoping to see a ceremony similar to our Mevlevi rituals, since the author in Bradt Guide Book used the term "Whirling Derwishes" for the prayer or zhikr ritual which takes place 1 hour before the sunset.

At around 16:30 on Friday afternoon, we took our place in the crowd in front of the mosque which is the resting place for Hamid al-Nil, one of the sheikhs of Qadiriyah tariqa of the 19th century. Shortly 100-150 Sufis entered, headed by the tariqa leaders, standard bearers carrying the flags and the rhythm team playing the bells, drums and tambourines. It was not at all what I expected. For 45 minutes I watched these people lose themselves to the rhythm (I can't call that music) and twist and turn and move their arms and legs convulsively, each with their own dance figures. In a little while I noticed that all this hysterical movements softened the serious expressions on the faces of people and turned them into happy faces. I even witnessed little groups of women (I think they are not allowed to participate in the ceremony) in the audience, which formed a circle with a 50m diameter around the Sufis, also losing themselves to the rhythm of this "music" and join the "happy people". This scene reminded me of people who go to disco-bars every Friday night at the end of a week's hard work; dance to their hearts' content and relieve stress, but I won't mention that here.


During the later stages of the ceremony an expression of happiness spreads on people's faces.

One of the sheikhs who led the group into the arena

GThis was the real "Whirling Dervish" Check out the "patchwork" design clothes on him!


Ceremony ends with the evening prayer (namaz)

Meroe
Meroe is a city approximately 220km to the north of Khartoum. It is renowned for being an old Kushite capital.

Kushites (or Kush Kingdom, Kush means "miserable, helpless" in ancient Egypt language) decided to move their capital from Napata to Meroe in 3rd century BC during the reign of King Arqamani. This was done mainly to get away from the Egyptian hegemony. They even discarded the hieroglyph, the Egyptian writing system and began to use a Meroitic script, which has not been deciphered even to date. Therefore, what we know about Meroe's history is mostly based on data from the Greek and Roman times.


On the road to Meroe...

The biggest benefit of this move to the kingdom was the richer soils and wetlands. In addition, the area was so rich in iron ore that Meroe quickly became the largest iron production center, inasmuch as being called the "Birmingham of Africa" today.

The tombs of Kings are a popular tourist attraction since they are more interesting historical ruins compared to the city of Kingdom where not much is left standing. There are a total of 100 tombs, some of which have been moved from Nuri, the royal cemetery at the time, to their current location. These tombs are divided into two groups: the Northern Cemetery and the Southern Cemetery. The Southern Cemetery is older and the tombs in it date back to 8th century BC. The tombs are generally poorly preserved, neglected and badly restored. They resemble the pyramids of Egypt, yet much smaller (the largest under 30 meters in height) and unimposing compared to their counterparts. Also shape-wise they are more sharply pointed.

Meroe Tombs of Kings

...and I

In the evening we found a suitable place to set up our camp in the desert behind the hill from the tombs of kings in the north; to prepare for yet another magnificent desert night.

I was assigned the task of making dinner that night. Of course I am more than willing to do it since everything is ready meal. Menu consists of soup as first course (tomato for Chris and mushroom for me), and then dry beans with meat. I started to lay out the plans for Ethiopia following an apple and few cups of tea after dinner. I don't need to say that once again I am in my sleeping bag on the desert sand falling asleep under a million stars.


Sunset in the desert is something else

The next day after breakfast we pack it up to head to the southern tombs 500 meters behind. At the tombs, I have captured the saddest moment I have had during my trip so far. Three small children, I think siblings, who walked up to the car… Their ages must range from 4 to 7. The youngest one is a boy. The two younger ones are hanging on to their older sister, slightly behind her. Especially the boy was cowing behind her sister. They are looking at me, into my eyes with fearful eyes. I try to put on a cute face (to the extend that is possible for me to do) to communicate with them. They remain quiet. I give them in a bag, leftover bread and cheese. Their bewildered and timid expressions remain. I grab a handful of candy that I find in one of the boxes at the back of the car and divide equally among the three. It still doesn't help rid off that confused, fearful look from their faces. I wish I could at least make them smile a little. I captured their faces with that same shy, timid look. As I always do, I showed them the picture on the camera. Everywhere else all other kids (even adults) would scream in delight and pull and push each other pointing to the photos. These three still wear the same fearful gaze; even as I leave I feel it behind me. Their clothes in tatters, hair matted with dirt and eyes wide open with fear…

There are immigrants in many parts of Sudan. Some of them were settled there by the government and some have found places to take shelter by their own means. Most of them have escaped the war and oppression to their new "homes". Either from the civil war in the south or the horrific genocide in Darfur… Maybe these children are part the army of homeless, who knows. The fear in their eyes is maybe from what they have gone through… Do they have a mother and a father? It made my heart sink in sadness.


No matter how much I tried I couldnt wipe the fear in their faces

Remember I mentioned Rupert, the Austrian with his 3 little kids traveling across Africa in an ancient VW van; and said I would tell you later about him. Rupert is doing something I still find difficult to imagine. Is it an escape after losing his wife, I don't know. But it is not the first time he is on a trip of this kind. He traveled in Asia on a similar trip. I don't know about the details, whether he had his kids then with him or not, I am not sure… The oldest one is at school age. So Rupert had to get permission to do home schooling for him during the first year of the compulsory education. I guess it is something that can be done in that country. Every now and then he downloads the curriculum, course notes, tests from the internet and teaching his kid, among every other thing. He has devoted himself to his kids, with all his being. As I watched him interact with his kids, play and communicate with them, I have to admit I felt ashamed. He doesn't interfere with them or stop them. He doesn't even interfere with other people, usually those on duty, officers, etc., giving the kids an earful for acting up sometimes. When dressed down, the kids don't even turn around to look at their father. They learn from their "mistakes" by experiencing them. Sometimes they do something dangerous and somebody rushes to stop them. That's when Rupert steps in and stops that person, so his kids can learn about danger even, by experiencing it themselves. As a consequence of dangerous behavior the kid trips and falls; hits his arm, leg or head somewhere and hurts it but he doesn't even make a sound. It just means another line is added to the "Not-to-do" or "Be-Careful-About" list. I don't want you to get the impression that he is a "negligent father". I have never seen such a knowledgeable father as involved with his children as he is, and this is a confession. He is taking his children with him no matter where he goes. Even into the customs officer's room for customs formalities. We were in Wadi Halfa, during one of our sit-and-wait routines in the port building after hearing that the barge carrying our vehicles was due to arrive. After few hours' wait, kids were beyond entertaining themselves. Rupert pulled out a stopwatch from his pocket and set up an obstacle course for the kids, timing the laps. After every lap, he would change the shape of the course and its level of difficulty. The kids spent a fun 1.5 hours this way. And there was no sign of boredom on Rupert's face.

At one point I asked him "It would be impossible for me, but isn't this trip a little taxing on you? Both rough conditions and three kids…" He said "No way!" added, "Sometimes the car breaks down. While I am trying to fix it I get distressed and anxious, then I say to the kids "let's play a game". We play some and it helps me pull myself together. I go back to fixing the car." I felt embarrassed. Rupert passed through that rough Wadi Halfa-Dongola road which I mentioned excitedly in a previous update. His car broke down, I think, twice and it took them 4 days to complete to drive through. There was a Dutch couple traveling along and they haven't left Rupert and his kids alone. They were getting on well with each other, especially with the kids. Later Chris saw them in Gonder (Ethiopia) he said they were doing fine. Government wouldn't allow Rupert to do more home schooling with his son so after Tanzania they will return to Mombasa / Kenya and complete their journey in Africa. I hope I will bump into them again somewhere.


Rupert's second oldest child. Check out the t-shirt...
He is my fellow countryman

And Departure for Ethiopia
On the morning of Tuesday, December 6th, I am waiting in Mehmet's office for TNT to deliver my adaptor - like a prospective father waiting outside the delivery room. Just as I was thinking of calling at 9am the TNT vehicle pulled up and delivered my package. Of course, finding a Sony Vaio adaptor in Khartoum was beyond my wildest dreams.

Once my Egypt update was done and sent, I had a good night's sleep with the comfort of a child who has done his homework. Another reason for the comfortable sleep was the special marinated shish barbeque and the fantastic salad which Mehmet made. In Mehmet's words, the only way to give flavor and texture to the meat of the lambs which can't find anything to eat but "paper and nylon waste" was to marinade the meat. I feasted on this most delicious shish kebab which he wrapped in special lavash bread ordered and delivered from the Turkish Kebab house, with the accompanying tangy salad. The post-dinner laze and the satisfaction of having accomplished my task combined brought upon my eyelids the fat sleep angels.

The next morning I woke up fresh after comfortable sleep, said my goodbyes to Mehmet and left to pick up Chris from his hotel. I had an 8 day delay in my original program which meant Chris' and my program now overlapped. So now I have a trip buddy till Gonder.


Mehmet Utlu; dear friend.

Gedaref road is a 440 km asphalt paved road. While we were cruising comfortably, Chris spotted Nando's (the crazy Catalonian) bicycle in front of a restaurant before Wad Medani. Nando told us later that when he saw us through semi-open eyelids as he was napping on a sofa seat at the restaurant, first he thought he was dreaming. Then he jumped to his feet saying "Whoa! It's Daddy's car!" (Nando likes giving nicknames to people and since I was the "oldest" in the group, he began calling me "Daddy"). After about a two hour chat we bid goodbye to Nando and got back on the road. As we approached Gedaref, the usual "desert" appearance of Sudan began to transform into something more African, the shapes and colors of Africa, with occasional greenery appearing here and there. This transformation of scenery into something more African would become more pronounced the next day, as we approached Gallabat.

We arrived in Gedaref after sunset so had to stay there for the night. The next day we departed for Gallabat. The road to Gallabat was winding and had gravel/earthen surface which became rough at places. We stopped in Gallabat for the "last call" for fuel before Ethiopia (petrol products in Ethiopia are far more expensive compared to Sudan) and headed to the border for passport and customs controls. Passport and customs formalities were complete in short time, with no hiccups, as opposed to what we went through in Wadi Halfa. We crossed the bridge over the Atbara River which runs through the Sudan and Ethiopia border at this point. We are now in Ethiopia.

Before completing the Sudan notes, I want to tell you a little about the two colonial periods in Sudan's history.

As I wrote before, Sudan's first colonial period began during the Ottoman times. Actually it is a little difficult to see this period as a real Ottoman colonial rule (due to Egypt's unique autonomous structure and beyond that, the independent politics employed by Kavalali Mehmet Ali Pasha removed from Istanbul's centralism). Mehmet Ali Pasha drives the Mamlukes down to the south of Nile and then sends Badi IV, the Funj sultan (sources refer to it as "Funj mek". Funjs were a non-arabic and non-muslim people, it is assumed that their kingdom was formed in 16th century around southern Nile or Ethiopia) a message asking him to chase the Mamlukes out of Dongola where they have retreated to. When he didn't get a positive response to his request, he gathered a force of 4,000 made up of Bedouins, Maghribians, Arabs and Albanians (Mehmet Ali Pasha is an Albanian himself) under the leadership of his son Ismail and along with a few Europeans who wanted to take a slice of the pie, first devastated the Mamlukes and then invaded Funj. In fact his goal was to benefit from the slavery practice that was in place in Sudan. Arabs who did not really enjoy this invasion initiated an uprising which could only be appeased by the appointment of the reformist Ali Hursit Aga as a governor. Ali Hursit Aga reduced the taxes, issued an amnesty, gave the expropriated lands back to the owners and abolished state monopoly on slave trade. Following these reforms and with the commissioning of steam boats on the White Nile in 1839 the Egyptian domination under Ottoman identity reached all the way to Juba today (which will be soon announced as the capital city of Southern Sudan soon).

When Mehmet Ali Pasha's grandson Ismail who studied in Vienna, was appointed as the Khedive, he wanted to expand Egypt into central Africa so he commissioned Sir Samuel Baker to accomplish this. When he failed in this attempt then Khedive Ismail appointed Charles "Chinese" Gordon who was nicknamed the "Chinese Tiger". The uprising led by Mahdi (Mohammed Ahmed al-Mahdi) resulted in the tragic death of Gordon. This brought an end to the Ottoman, or Turkiya as it is referred to in the Sudanian history, era.

The second colonial period in Sudan was due to imprudent expenditures of Khedive Ismail who had to then hand the country to England in return for his debts. General Kitchener (remember the general who gained victory with his railroad from Wadi Halfa) defeated Mahdi's army near Omdurman in 1898, resulting in a casualty count of 10,000; and the British era began in Sudan. Sudan was used as a source of raw materials to the English industry. It gained some benefits from this, such as new iron mines and automated cotton agriculture in a large area. British rule came to an end when an independent Republic of Sudan was established in 1956 and Egyptian, and British flags were taken down.

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